Dive into comfort and style with the enchanting Sirens’ Slumber Socks! These cozy socks, inspired by the mystical allure of mermaid scales, are crafted using the intricate mosaic crochet technique. Available in three sizes—Small (S), Medium (M), and Large (L)—they offer a perfect fit for everyone. Whether you're lounging by the coast or dreaming of ocean adventures, these socks will keep your feet warm and stylish. Embrace the magic of the ocean with every step you take!
*Disclosure* Hey there! Just so you know, some of the links on this blog are affiliate links. This means that if you click on one of these links and buy something, I might get a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend items that I've personally used and found helpful, so don't worry, you're in good hands. But please, only buy these products if you think they'll help you achieve your goals. Thanks for your support!
What do you need?
You'll need 2 fingering weight yarn (4 ply) colours in contrasting shades. I've chosen a colour change yarn with a wool mix fibre content which will give the main foot section of the socks depth and texture. The contrast colour is from the same range in a neutral colour which gives the mermaid section of the socks and extra 'pop'.
[MC] 2 Balls of Drops Fabel - Berry Dreams Print (330)
[CC] 1 Ball Drops Fabel - Light Pearl Grey (114)
(4ply, 25% Polyamide, 75% Wool, 205m/50g)
You'll also need 2 sized hooks:
The larger crochet hook is used for the mermaid scales section worked in mosaic and the smaller hook is used to create the main foot section of the sock.
Make sure you also have a tape measure and stitch markers to hand before you start.
How are the socks made?
Start by working up from the toe of the socks in single crochet rounds. The shaping of the heel is worked in rows, followed by a band of single crochet in rounds to complete the basic sock. The mermaid scales are worked on top of the basic sock using mosaic crochet in rounds. The sock is finished with a ribbed cuff, also worked in rounds.
This pattern is written in S, M and L. The only difference between these sizes is the foot length. Sizes are based on standard US shoe sizes. S is shoe size 4 – 6.5, M is 7 – 9.5, L is 10 – 12.5. These socks are designed to be Crew/Slouch Socks. They are fitted at the base of the sock with a loose, slouch cuff above the ankle. Socks will initially feel snug but will naturally stretch to fit comfortably.
Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF in my Ravelry Shop
PIN for later HERE
Add to your Ravelry Basket HERE
Materials
[MC] 2 Balls Drops Fabel - Berry Dreams Print (330)
[CC] 1 Ball Drops Fabel - Light Pearl Grey (114)
(4ply, 25% Polyamide, 75% Wool, 205m/50g)
Hook 3.5mm (US E/4) and 3.0 mm (US (C/2) standard crochet hook.
Other Stitch markers for placing, tape measure.
Tension 22 sts x 30 rnds = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm) measured over sc with 3.00 mm/C2 Hook. Size up or down in hook to achieve tension.
Terminology US
Sizes S, M, L
Approx Finished Size Width at foot: 4”, Heel to toe length: S (8.5”) M (9.5”) L (10.5”)
Style Crew/Slouch Socks. Fitted at base of sock with a loose, slouch cuff above the ankle. Sock will naturally stretch to fit comfortably.
Pattern notes
Basic Sock:
Basic sock is worked using a 3mm(C/2) crochet hook.
Socks are made in continuous rounds, do not slip stitch at the end of each round to join.
When working the heel, starting chains are not included in the stitch count.
Mosaic Section:
Mosaic section is worked using a 3.5mm(E/4) crochet hook.
Each mosaic round is worked from the right side; do not turn at the end of each round.
All blsc are worked into the top of the stitch from the previous round as normal.
All fldcs are worked into the front loop of the stitch immediately below it, 2 rows down, ie where a fldc is indicated in round 3, it is worked into the front loop of the stitch directly below it from round 1 and the same stitch of row 3 is skipped.
All slip stitches are worked into back loop only and first stitch of each round is worked in same stitch as previous round’s slip stitch.
There is no need to fasten off the colour not being used at the end of each round, just drop the colour and pick it up again when required.
Chains are not included in stitch counts.
To avoid a visible seam when working a round that starts and ends with a ‘fldc’ work a ‘m-fldc’. Refer to special stitches for guidance. This applies to rnds 2, 8 and 10.
Hello, fellow crocheters! 🌸 I’m thrilled to share my passion for crochet with you through my free patterns. If you’ve enjoyed my designs and would like to support my work, please consider making a small donation via my Ko-fi button. Your generosity will help me continue creating and sharing these patterns with our wonderful community. Every little bit helps and is greatly appreciated. Thank you for your support and happy crocheting! 🧶💖
Abbreviations:
blsc—back loop single crochet
BPdc—back post double crochet
ch—chain
CC—contrast colour
dc—double crochet
dec—decrease
fldc—front loop double crochet
FPdc—front post double crochet
Inc—increase working 2 sc in specified stitch
Lfltr—left front loop treble
MC—main colour
m-fldc—modified front loop dc
rep—repeat
Rfldc-Lfldc—right front loop dc and left front loop dc
Rfltr—right front loop treble
rnd—round
RS—right side
sc—single crochet
sc3tog—single crochet 3 together
sl st—slip stitch
st—stitch
WS—wrong side
yo—yarn over
Special Stitches:
For full stitch explanations and diagrams, a pdf pattern is available to download.
fldc – working 2 rows down, yo, insert hook into front loop only of stitch 2 rows down , yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook. Skip one stitch of current round.
blsc – insert hook into back loop only of next stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook.
Lfltr – working 2 rows down, yo twice, skip next 2 sts, insert hook into front loop of next stitch, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 2 loops on hook. Skip one stitch of current round.
Rfltr – working 2 rows down, yo twice, insert hook into front loop of st 2 sts to the right, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook. Skip one stitch of current round.
Rfldc-Lfldc working 2 rows down, yo, insert hook into front loop of stitch to the right, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into front loop of stitch to the left, yo, pull through, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, pull through last 3 loops on hook. Skip one stitch of current round.
m-fldc – as fldc, but worked into front loop of next st as normal and front loop of st worked into for the first st in rnd.
To Make the Basic Sock
With 3.0mm/C2 crochet hook and MC, make a magic ring...
Rnd 1 ch 1, 6 sc into magic ring, pull ring tight to close. [6 sc]
Place a stitch marker in the last stitch of round 1; move marker up as you go. Do not join here and throughout.
Rnd 2 inc in each stitch around. [12 sc]
Rnd 3 *1 sc, inc; rep from * around. [18 sc]
Rnd 4 *2 sc, inc; rep from * around. [24 sc]
Rnd 5 *3 sc, inc; rep from * around [30 sc]
Rnd 6 *4 sc, inc; rep from * around [36 sc]
Rnd 7 *5 sc, inc; rep from * around [42 sc]
Rnd 8 *6 sc, inc; rep from * around [48 sc]
The circle should measure approx 2.5” (6cm). Size up or down in hook to achieve size.

Rnd 9 sc in each stitch around [48 sc]
Repeat rnd 9 to rnd 50 for S, 58 for M, 66 for L [48 sc], turn.
The following rows shape the heel, turn at the end of each row.
Row 1 [WS] ch 1, 28 sc, turn. [28 sc]
Rows 2-11 as row 1
Row 12 [RS] ch 1, *7 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [25 sc]
Row 13 [WS] ch 1, *6 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [22 sc]
Row 14 [RS] ch 1, *5 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [19 sc]
Row 15 [WS] ch 1, *4 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [16 sc]
Row 16 [RS] ch 1, *3 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [13 sc]
Row 17 [WS] ch 1, *2 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [10 sc]
Row 18 [RS] ch 1, *1 sc, dec; rep from 2 more times, 1 sc, turn. [7 sc]
Row 19 [WS] ch 1, dec, sc3tog, dec. [3 sc]
Row 20 [RS] ch 1, sc3tog. [1 sc]
Do not fasten off.
Continue working following rnds continuously; do not turn at the end of each rnd.
Rnd 1 ch 1, 50 sc evenly around opening. [50 sc]
***Tip: rnd 1 looks best if you crochet roughly 15 sc down one side of the heel shaping, 20 sc into the last rnd before heel shaping, and the final 15 sc into the last half of the heel shaping.
Rnd 2 sc in each stitch around [50 sc]
Rnd 3-10 as rnd 2, sl st into back loop of first st at the end of final rnd.
To make the mosaic section:
Change to 3.5mm/E4 crochet hook. The following rnds are worked from the RS only, do not turn at the end of each rnd.
Refer to chart and photos for guidance.
The mermaid scale repeat is rnds 2—11 represented on the chart.
With MC...
Rnd 1 [MC] ch 1, blsc around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Join CC, dropping MC behind; you do not need to fasten off MC. Continue to alternate between MC and CC.
***Tip: the following round starts and ends with a ‘fldc’. To avoid a visible seam, work a ‘m-fldc’ on last st of rnd.
Rnd 2 [CC] ch 1, *2 fldc, 5 blsc, 3 fldc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 3 [MC] ch 1, *1 Lfltr, 7 blsc, 1 Rfltr, 1 blsc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 4 [CC] ch 1, *1 blsc, 7 fldc, 1 blsc, 1 fldc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 5 [MC] ch 1, *9 blsc, 1 Rfldc-Lfldc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 6 [CC] ch 1, *2 blsc, 5 fldc, 3 blsc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 7 [MC] ch 1, *3 blsc, 1 Rfltr, 1 blsc, 1 Lfltr, 4 blsc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
***Tip: the following round starts and ends with a ‘fldc’. To avoid a visible seam, work a ‘m-fldc’ on last st of rnd.
Rnd 8 [CC] ch 1, *3 fldc, 1 blsc, 1 fldc, 1 blsc, 4 fldc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 9 [MC] ch 1, *4 blsc, 1 Rfldc-Lfldc, 5 blsc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
***Tip: the following round starts and ends with a ‘fldc’. To avoid a visible seam, work a ‘m-fldc’ on last st of rnd.
Rnd 10 [CC] ch 1, *4 fldc, 1 blsc, 5 fldc; rep from * around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Rnd 11 [MC] ch 1, 4 blsc, 1 fldc, 5 blsc; rep from around, sl st into back loop of first st.
Repeat rnds 2—11 ending on rnd 29. Do not turn.
To make the ribbing:
With MC only, work in rnds, turning at the end of each rnd.
Rnd 1 [RS] ch 3 [does not count as st here and throughout], dc in each st around, sl st into first st, turn. [50 dc]
Rnd 2 [WS] ch 3, *1 FPdc, 1 BPdc; rep from * around, sl st into first st, turn.
Rnd 3 [RS] as rnd 2.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Repeat all for second sock.
Chart:


Congratulations on completing your Sirens' Slumber Socks!
Please feel free to share your finished creations with me on social media using #crochethooksandmagic...I love seeing how you bring my designs to life!
If you have any queries on this pattern, get in touch with me on any of my social media and don’t forget to check out my blog and other patterns if you enjoyed working through this one!
Elisa
x
This pattern is an original pattern by Crochet Hooks and Magic. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Crochet Hooks and Magic. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you!
Image by Freepik
Comments